Men’s Shirt Collar Guide: Spread, Button-Down and Mandarin Collars

Shivam Golhani · 12 Jul 2026

Which shirt collar should a man choose?

The right collar depends on the shape of the outfit, the level of formality and how much structure you want around the neckline. Spread collars feel sharper, button-down collars feel more relaxed, and mandarin collars remove the traditional collar points entirely.

Browse men’s shirts to compare collar constructions across colours and patterns. For minimal styling, the solid shirts collection provides a clear starting point.

Spread collar

A spread collar has collar points that open away from each other. It creates a broader, cleaner frame around the neck and works well with tailored trousers, jackets and refined smart-casual outfits. Worn open at the neck, it still keeps a structured line.

Button-down collar

A button-down collar secures each collar point to the shirt body. The construction reduces movement and gives the shirt a practical, casual character. It pairs naturally with denim, chinos and layered weekend outfits.

Mandarin collar

A mandarin collar, also called a stand collar, sits upright without folded points. It creates a cleaner neckline and can make a shirt feel more contemporary. The shape works particularly well when the rest of the outfit is simple.

How collar choice changes the outfit

• Spread collar: sharper and more architectural.
• Button-down collar: relaxed and practical.
• Mandarin collar: minimal and modern.

Collar choice should also relate to the shirt pattern. A solid shirt allows the collar shape to lead the design. A checked shirt adds more visual texture, so a simpler collar treatment can help maintain balance. Explore checked shirts for men for pattern-led options.

How to choose by occasion

Office and business-casual dressing

A spread collar is the most direct choice when the outfit needs a sharper line. A restrained button-down can also work in more relaxed offices.

Weekend and travel dressing

Button-down collars stay controlled and pair easily with denim or chinos.

Minimal evening dressing

A mandarin collar in a dark or neutral solid colour can create a clean evening look without a tie.

Frequently asked questions

Is a spread collar formal?

It is generally the sharpest of these three collar types, although the fabric, colour and styling determine the final level of formality.

Can a button-down collar be worn untucked?

Yes, particularly when the shirt length and hem are designed for casual wear.

What is another name for a mandarin collar?

It is also commonly called a stand collar.

Which collar works best without a tie?

All three can be worn without a tie. The spread collar looks structured, the button-down relaxed and the mandarin minimal.